My planning
of about three months was finally coming to reality. The last week in office
(before vacation) is ticking very slow as I am already mentally off (just like
a kid who waits for dad to come home quickly with the toy). The trip started
with one-day halt at Delhi. I saw Qutub Minar for the first time along with my
son and wife. We just paid tribute to
Red Fort and India Gate as the temperature soar to 46°C. Delhi trip is done! Evening
concluded with a birthday party celebration of Ranu’s (my friend’s) son –
Aarush. This is the family who will accompany us for next 10 days.
Day 1:
Morning train is always hectic to catch at New Delhi. In Delhi Station you
realize that people are just looking at your wallet to get lighter. The journey
till Chandigarh is soothing as AC in Shatabdi Train is good – better than the
breakfast served. With a small glitch at Chandigarh, we are on wheels and
heading towards Manali. Bangalore has lot to learn from Chandigarh – systematic
planning and amazing roads. An hour after Chandigarh is left behind, the breeze
is cooler and we are expecting rain as well. And lo, as I thought, it started
raining… As we pass lovely villages, the hills are growing into mountain but I
am waiting for most enchanting drive – Manali to Leh. I had done lot of
research on net about this and was well prepared. I was fully packed and well
medicated for “Mountain sickness”. Best blog I read was this. The hotel at Manali (Tourist
Hotel) is decent and has open balconies facing vast mountains. Alas! I will
leave early morning tomorrow as something better is waiting.
Day 2: Mr
Prem (mobile: +919318044400) was very helpful to pre-book Tempo Traveler for
seven of us with few heavy luggage. The team with two kids takes time to start
on time, so it’s 11 O’clock when we took the turn towards Rohtang Pass. Check
the complete route here. My itinerary is here - in case you are
curious about my plan J. The mountains are gaining more height – as they are famous
to be world’s highest ranges. The greenery with small streams popping almost at
every turn is providing the view everyone wishes to keep looking at. After an
hour’s drive, we are stuck in traffic-jam – mainly due to land-slide and
partially due to indiscipline humans. This provides us with the opportunity for
some clicks in the nearby stream. The 2+ hr journey took us 6 hours! It is
cloudy at Rohtang Pass and moreover it’s getting dark so no plans to admire beauty
at this place (Rohtang Pass = 3980m). The downhill journey towards Jispa was
beautiful. With almost zero traffic and a setting sun – the images of huge
mountains and peeping sun was just breathtaking. Its 7:00PM now and time for
lunch break. I am tasting best Momos and Ginger-garlic soup with all-time
favorite – Maggi (I just don’t know how I am going to hate it over coming
days). Ibex Hotel at Jispa (3320m) is visible from distance and just located on
highway. I am too tired to have dinner and that finishes my day. I climb two
stories in haste and that gives me my first experience of mountain heights – I
am as tired as I have been running miles. The hotel is cozy and looking at the
bed I am more tired. My wife wakes me up midnight that Sarthak (my son) threw
up twice. I got it – bad Maggi. I am sleepy again.
Day 3: It’s around
5AM and Sarthak is throwing up 5th time. He is thoroughly drained
out. I am a bit concerned now. The medicine to stop vomit is not working.
Doctor (dispensary) is either 30km back OR 100 km ahead (in army camp). Finally
took the tough decision to move ahead. The sun just grew old and provided the
much needed relief from the cold. Sarthak now is feeling better and my only
concern is that he didn’t have anything for breakfast. Well, the journey starts
again at 7AM. The green mountains which were visible till Jispa have now turned
yellowish brown. Baralacha La Pass (4890m) offers superb view at daunting
height. The white snow called for fun and here we go. All angles clicked on
camera but I cannot capture 360° in one shot. It is heaven! Sarthak is feeling better now but
refuses to take any eateries. Anyway no more puke means that he is fine now and
my decision was good. Army Camp at Sarchu (4290m) was wide spread and almost
deserted. To remain more cautious, we met the army doctor there. His advice to
just leave heights ASAP scared me a bit. He explains that this is called
“mountain sickness” – it’s not due to bad Maggi but due to 4k+ height. Except
kids, all of us were rightly medicated so we didn’t felt anything. I am again
in dilemma. We are just mid-way and driver informs us that its 10 hr drive to
Leh. Our initial plan was to have only 6-7hr drive and give ourselves a good
rest. Hence our next destination is camps near Tsokar Lake (4600m) – at greater
height. I booked Tsokar mainly as it was mid-way from Jispa to Leh plus I heard
about the beauty during night. Decision is deferred till we reach Moore Plains
and take the final call. I am keeping my fingers crossed as I don’t want to miss
anything on my dream trip.
The river which is cruising along us offers some stunning
moment. Maybe the glacier age would have carved out the beautiful sculptures
along the banks. Ranu compared it with Grand Canyons but I think they are
unique. Lachunglang La Pass (5079m) offers more dry colorful mountains around.
But the beauty is just marvelous. At our next Dhaba stop, Sarthak took
garlic-ginger soup and seems much relaxed. The soup is amazing and I wonder why
it seems that better food is available only at starred hotels. I am having
salty-buttery-tea now – unique in this place. By now, we all are convinced to
go to Tsokar for the night halt. Our driver is very helpful to offer to drive
in night as well if situation goes out-of-control. “Moore Plains” offer the
best view of limitless flat surface. There are multiple car tracks beyond the
road so people might have used it for off-road excursion as well. It was so
windy here that we were unsuccessfully chasing the sand which was disturbed by
our vehicle. I have heard “Chalti hai gaadi to udti hai dhool” but here it was
“udti hai dhool to peeche hai gadi”. Off the Moore Plains is Tsokar Lake. The
only tents available here are “Pasture Land” and we have a booking here. The
gigantic open space near the lake is perfect for camping. A small stream nearby
was the only sound produced in the desert. Evening was pleasant till the sun
was up. Now, it’s chilly and getting colder. Both Pooja and Sarthak are taking
rest within camp as men-brigade takes a nearby small stupa tour. At dinner we
are having a fresh cooked food – rice, paneer, mushroom… yum. Sarthak and Pooja
are now showing symptoms of “mountain sickness”. The bikers group beyond our
table belongs to Sweden. They rented a Quails to keep all required items for
the trip and got a mechanic with them all along. They are on their return
journey to Manali. They told us about “mountain sickness” and offered help to
kids with oxygen. Steven is helpful to tell me how to operate the instrument
and for the next one hour Sarthak, Aarush and Pooja were on oxygen. This helps
Sarthak to have a little food and go to sleep. My sincere thanks to Steven! Humanity
has no nationality…
Day 4: Pooja
is struggling with “mountain sickness” and she puked two times. Its 2AM and I
am shit scared. I invoked my belief system (people call it with different
names, I call it GOD) - may Pooja and Sarthak remain fine till dawn and we will
leave as early as possible. I am scolding myself on the decision I took to stay
at “height”. Sarthak is getting out for loo and apart from one dim torch there
is no other light source - its pitch dark otherwise. I accompanied Sarthak out
of tent to view the most-stunning-view-ever-in-my-life. While the torch was
switched-off, only one thing was visible – “stars”. They are down on earth just
above me (Taare Zamin Par!). As if I could jump and catch them. The Milky Way
(Akash Ganga) was as clean as pure white milk spilled over the stars. I am
crying in joy and called Pooja outside. Ranu was asleep and missed this – alas.
For the moment we forgot the chill outside (maybe about -20°C) and what situation we are in. It’s
so cold that I don’t want to even touch my camera and tripod – just watch this
amazing view and wonder the creator (I know I will regret later).
Its 5AM now and both Pooja and
Sarthak are fine plus good news from Ranu’s camp as well. Thank you Almighty!
The morning is about to knock the mountain range – far in east. I have
sufficient time to get few clicks now. The sun rays provide much required
warmth as chill factor disappears. 6AM and we are on our way to Leh. Apart from
Taglang La Pass (5328m), it’s all downhill journey from here. Ohh… wait... the
terrain is now getting beautiful. The sculptures made by wind or glaciers (during
ice age maybe) are astonishing. It all seems a massive “clay model” in the
colorful desert. This is surely the best view on drive. We have stopped before
Rumste – first village after we left Jispa. The warm tea with great hospitality
added color to the landscape nearby. The ten-feet-wide water stream, the
“termite hill” shaped mountains in backdrop… just fabulous. I am off my thick
jacket and both families are relaxed and smiling. Journey continues while the
small stream of water get together to form Indus River. The scars on mountains
still tell the horror story of “cloud burst” in 2010. I can see greenery around
and sense the proximity to Leh.
“Aloo paratha” at Punjabi Restaurant at Upshi (3480m) is the
best answer to the now empty stomachs. For the first time after Manali, we were
overeating - maybe the low height factor. The drive to Leh was smooth as the
van touched 80kmph on flat surface. By noon we are at Omasila Hotel. All set
for nice stay at Leh. We went for the best way to explore a city – rent the
bike. We covered “Hall of Fame”, “Shanti Stupa” in evening. The weather is
amazing and all of us forgot about the horrors of past night.
Day 5: What
a relaxed morning this is…! Breakfast on open terrace facing white mountains in
far distance and Shanti Stupa on other side. Picture perfect scenery with best
of hospitality! We decided to do biking instead of arranged cab. Mr Puni (owner
and manager at Omasila) was humble and flexible enough for the change and we
started at 11AM. NH-1, Leh-Srinagar highway is best on bike. The tough twists
are two-laned and well marked (in contrast with Bangalore). First to hit on
highway is magnetic hill – boring. No illusion at all! The confluence of Indus
and Zanskar (sangam) offers awesome view. Quick lunch here and then we are off
to Likir Monastry. This drive is one of the best rated drives I ever had. The
plateau offers 100kmph on bike with spectacular mountains on backdrop – with
colors of yellow, green, brown, grey, white. Just fabulous!
Likir Buddha statue is visible from distance. The artistry is
amazing and one can spend days here admiring it along with the beauty around.
But guess what, ladies are crying for their first shopping at Leh and we need
to hurry. Return journey is quick and Leh market is still open. First round of
un-minded shopping is over. Sarthak is happy as he got his next series in Harry
Potter to read. Tomorrow we are leaving for Nubra Valley.
Day 6: Got
prepared for ~150km drive in Xylo. Steep climb took us more than hour to reach
Khardung La Pass (5602m) – the highest motorable road in the world. In
excitement I am out of car and want to roam around a bit but the world seems to
be circling around me. I am actually feeling the “height sickness” currently.
The black tea served at “world’s highest cafeteria” is amazing – taste is
splendid and the army personal at canteen can’t reveal the ingredients. The
descent was breathtaking as stalactites made of ice (water frozen while trying
to melt by sunlight) were all over the side of road. It continued for about a
kilometer and I am tired of taking snaps. Sumur monastery offered more Buddha
and more monks. The valley is filled with vapors of “peace”.
It is quiet warm here as we are
heading towards Hunder – sand dunes. All went perfect from here – the perfect
sand-dunes; the Bactrian camel ride. This is the best place for Sarthak to
enjoy as he is all free in sand – with no restrictions on spoiling his clothes.
The stay for 2hr here really made the day for all of us. Stay at a simple and
beautiful hotel added to the day’s glory. The simplest food one can have –
backyard grown green mustard, cabbage, dal-makhni and hot chapattis.
Day 7:
Return journey started with visiting Diskit Monastery. The Buddha is just
amazing. It seems that He breathes through the valley and provides the required
warmth. I am spellbound looking at the magnanimity. This place offers some
photo frame pics. Today I am fine at Khardung La Pass and this gives me
opportunity to click few snaps on my own. All I see here is just snow clad
mountains. Only Army men around here. 10 minutes of stoppage provides me enough
time to have black tea.
Evening tea at Omasila is again bliss. We have enough time
for another round of shopping in the Market.
Day 8: It
was a good choice to keep this day “free”. I am awake on my terms – at 9am!
Today’s itinerary is – do something different and relax. So here we are in
front of – world’s highest paint-ball arena. It is my first time and I am fully
charged. But again a 10m run makes me feel exhausted. After a quick relax at
Coffee Shop, we have just enough time left to sneak peek Leh Palace before we
come back for “folk” dance of Ladakh arranged at Omasila Hotel. The local folk
dance is astonishing. The colorful dresses and the slow-small-step dance moves
of the artists fit the valley background. It’s an hour that we have been
clicking photos of various moves. We are obliged by artists to pose few clicks
with us – nice souvenirs. I am all excited for tomorrow which will show the
“three-idiot” fame “Pangong Lake”. We are told to leave as early as possible.
Day 9: Day
starts at 8am and its 9am now that Innova picks the gas. Driver explains that
Chang-La Pass (5360m) is third highest pass but has dangerous roads. The small
streams run across the road and they get thicker as sun gets stronger. We are
already late. Apart from few small streams, this one is bigger and so I and
Ranu are off the vehicle. It’s chilly here and the water stream is almost
freezing. The crossover is quick and smooth and next stop is Chang-La Pass.
Again we are getting used to Black Tea at heights. The descend is suppose to be
challenged by two powerful streams. The first one is cake-walk – thanks to
makeshift bridge by the BRO. The second one – which is very near to Pangong
Lake – is called “Pagal Nala” (Mad Stream). The stories here say that the water
gushes in anytime on this stream and blocks the travel. The ground clearance of
vehicle doesn’t matters then and many a car and bus have been washed away.
Though I cannot see any evidence anywhere but the look of the place (tracks where
water would/could have rushed in) seem to tell the terrifying story. Within
minutes we got the first glimpse of the Lake – the blue pearl scattered in the
yellowish-brown mountain. Each one of us is mad – the color is just
breath-taking. The Lake starts here and runs all the way into China. The length
is about 150km. Because of the proximity with China, it’s a restricted area and
requires permit to travel to this place. I feel it should be restricted to
rather few numbers of people travelling/year – just like US-H1 visa.
We are now in front of
Blue-Blue-Blue-Blue-Blue Lake. Seriously, I can’t distinguish all the shades of
Blue which the Lake is reflecting – you need to see it to experience it! I am
out with my camera while others are busy ordering lunch in nearby Dhaba. The fleet
of bird just arrived nearly and they mock at me – look I can kiss the blue
waters while flying deep into the lake and can get any view I want. I know that
the human life is not enough to enjoy the beauty of nature. One by one they are
all gone and I am now keen to touch the waters. But I am told that the water is
sacred and should not be touched. I followed the orders – more to preserve the
untouched beauty, so that you can see it in the same way. The water is crystal
clear and each and every pebble is clearly visible even at the depth of few
feet. We spent close to hour before we reached “Three Idiot” Point. The land here
is extended into the waters and gives a shape of small peninsula. The sun is
about to set but the water is still blue. In between is gives the shade of
yellow and pink – coming from nearby mountains. Remarkable nature beauty! It’s
worth travel to Leh just to view this Lake in all its glory. Before evening
gets dark we are in our camps nearly the lake. The color of Lake turns from
Blue to Grey to Black. The hospitality is again unmatched – even in this barren
land. As the beautiful breeze from the Lake got chiller, we got into singing
few old numbers…
Day 10: The
morning sun got brighter as we took our breakfast. We hurried into the car as
the stories of streams were still alive. The Lake look new as still it hadn’t
touched “That Blue” color. The goodbye was short as car sped on its return
path. The journey till Chang-La Pass was smooth. The stream on descend has gone
thick today. Again we got down so that car can safely cross. Ranu and I took
off our shoes and touched the cold water. Mid-stream, the freezing water is
reaching till our knees. The flow is fast and a slip here would mean that I am
down in the valley on other side. My legs are almost numb as I approach car.
But it was good fun and a short excitement.
We all are sad today as the Leh
trip ends with this trip. Tomorrow we are flying back to Bangalore. Though
every day was different, each one of them was memorable. We skipped all the monasteries
on our way as we didn’t want to miss last shopping ritual at Leh. We remembered
our loved ones and collected souvenirs as per their interest.
Day 11: Today
I am back in Bangalore via Delhi. The news is that I forgot the password of my
laptop. No better way to describe the time I spent in Leh. I miss you Leh!
Do check the clicks at: Picasa - My Leh Trip
